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Author Topic: Substitute for miners moss?  (Read 56425 times)

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Offline bcdigger

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Substitute for miners moss?
« on: April 15, 2008, 01:33:53 PM »
Does Anyone know a good substitute for miners moss?
The nomad matting is just so expensive, so I'm looking for a good alternative without jeopardizing gold loss.
You'll always wonder unless you dig it

VikingSniper

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Re: Substitute for miners moss?
« Reply #1 on: April 15, 2008, 01:43:14 PM »
You know those washable furnace filters its like miners moss or high profile ribbed carpet, hope that helps.

Offline SnowSpider

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Re: Substitute for miners moss?
« Reply #2 on: April 16, 2008, 06:26:30 PM »
Yuppers  I use the Furnace filters  they work great if ya flatten them down with your expanded metal or riffles  Cheap and as cloase as your Canadian Tire store LOL

Dave
Cold Wet and Tired aint Prospecting Fun??

Offline rockpup

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Re: Substitute for miners moss?
« Reply #3 on: April 16, 2008, 08:05:49 PM »
Cool, I am looking for something like that, nice!!I buy my ribbed carpet from there.I am looking for some form of rubber or plastic like liner for a finishing sluice.Ribbed mat or v-mat whatever they call, that any ideas?I found a coconut matting material that I am going to try out.You can burn the coco-nut fiber to retrieve the lodged gold.I have a freind that uses burlap sacks for that reason.

VikingSniper

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Re: Substitute for miners moss?
« Reply #4 on: April 16, 2008, 09:09:39 PM »
You know those big snap-on tool box with overload springs they make V mating for the top of them. I have seen it at lot at tool stores.

Offline rockpup

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Re: Substitute for miners moss?
« Reply #5 on: April 17, 2008, 07:01:06 AM »
Good call, I think I have seen that in princess auto.Have you seen the the cool stainless dipping laydel,looks like a old school one for a rocker.They also sell nice stainless buckets.Great place for weird items,bought a stainless suction gun and a cool acid refill bulb that sucks up gravel good.

Offline Raimford

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Re: Substitute for miners moss?
« Reply #6 on: April 17, 2008, 10:18:08 AM »
I wrote this post for a thread on Alaska Gold Forum.  The information may help you recover more of the fines.

When designing a sluice experience has taught me to have plenty of water running over your biggest rocks. This will lesson the weight of the rock by the amount of water that the rock displaces. I figure the largest rock that I want my business end to ingest and add an inch or 2 of water over the top. Also, the water flowing over the top of the rock adds lift much like the wing of an airplane and the pressure difference between the upstream and downstream sides all add to the ease of transport through your sluice.

The second thing that you need to take into account is the riffle system. I personally think Hungarian riffles are only good for coarse gold. Anything smaller than 1/16" will migrate down your sluice and over the end. In my early years I had an expanded metal in my sluice that worked very well. This was a 2" x 16ga decorative sunshade for office windows. I haven't seen it for years and I don't know if it is still made.

The last dredge I built was a 4" er and I put Monsanto's door mat material in it. This has stiff plastic 8 bladed tuffs in rows and they are bent in different directions. You should be able to buy them at your local Freddy's (or other hardware store). Straighten the blades out by diping the blades in boiling water for a second or two. Don't wet the backing. Next at 4 to 6 inch intervals perpendicular to water flow cut one row of blades down to the backing leaving just the base button. These will be your nugget traps.

My sluice was 10" wide and 8 feet long with 4- 10" x 2 foot long removable mats. I never found much fine gold in the last section. Tests confirmed capture of 98% of 200 mesh and 95% of 300 mesh and this was Snake Rivers popcorn gold and platy gold. This combo will allow slower water in your sluice and additional length will give the fine gold time to settle to the bottom. The rocks will strike the blades and move the black sand and the fine gold that has sought refuge behind the blades will sink out of the current and be trapped until you remove and turn it upside down in a pan or bucket.

One word of caution. The additional weight of the water and black sand etc. coupled with the additional length will require additional structural design considerations. Good luck and happy hunting.

Offline SnowSpider

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Re: Substitute for miners moss?
« Reply #7 on: April 17, 2008, 05:26:16 PM »
OMG  dont get me started on princess auto its a wealth of gold mining equipment if one goes outside the box Peavy Mart here in Leduc has some great hallway entery carpet and matting   thats another good place to look for stuff.

Dave
Cold Wet and Tired aint Prospecting Fun??

Offline rockpup

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Re: Substitute for miners moss?
« Reply #8 on: April 22, 2008, 07:04:50 AM »
Found a good material.Outdoor carpet from dollar store.Cut the back of and going to use in 2 layers.I cant upload a picture for some reason will try later.Tried some out tonight with my old back yard sand got some good black sand and garnets.Picked up the small micro lead shvings i tried, think it might work well on super fine gold.

Offline shiver

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Re: Substitute for miners moss?
« Reply #9 on: April 22, 2008, 11:42:57 PM »
I wrote this post for a thread on Alaska Gold Forum.  The information may help you recover more of the fines.

When designing a sluice experience has taught me to have plenty of water running over your biggest rocks. This will lesson the weight of the rock by the amount of water that the rock displaces. I figure the largest rock that I want my business end to ingest and add an inch or 2 of water over the top. Also, the water flowing over the top of the rock adds lift much like the wing of an airplane and the pressure difference between the upstream and downstream sides all add to the ease of transport through your sluice.

The second thing that you need to take into account is the riffle system. I personally think Hungarian riffles are only good for coarse gold. Anything smaller than 1/16" will migrate down your sluice and over the end. In my early years I had an expanded metal in my sluice that worked very well. This was a 2" x 16ga decorative sunshade for office windows. I haven't seen it for years and I don't know if it is still made.

The last dredge I built was a 4" er and I put Monsanto's door mat material in it. This has stiff plastic 8 bladed tuffs in rows and they are bent in different directions. You should be able to buy them at your local Freddy's (or other hardware store). Straighten the blades out by diping the blades in boiling water for a second or two. Don't wet the backing. Next at 4 to 6 inch intervals perpendicular to water flow cut one row of blades down to the backing leaving just the base button. These will be your nugget traps.

My sluice was 10" wide and 8 feet long with 4- 10" x 2 foot long removable mats. I never found much fine gold in the last section. Tests confirmed capture of 98% of 200 mesh and 95% of 300 mesh and this was Snake Rivers popcorn gold and platy gold. This combo will allow slower water in your sluice and additional length will give the fine gold time to settle to the bottom. The rocks will strike the blades and move the black sand and the fine gold that has sought refuge behind the blades will sink out of the current and be trapped until you remove and turn it upside down in a pan or bucket.

One word of caution. The additional weight of the water and black sand etc. coupled with the additional length will require additional structural design considerations. Good luck and happy hunting.



Interesting test results Raimford, and many thanks for sharing your efforts here. {cool^sign} I will definitely try the Monsanto's material on my next project. I also like the idea of saving time classifying. And that actually being beneficial to recovery!!

Thanks again,
Shiver