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Author Topic: Using a Batea gold pan.  (Read 423 times)

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Offline Youtuber Dan

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Using a Batea gold pan.
« on: February 03, 2019, 07:00:37 AM »
Latest video where I use a Batea gold pan for the first time.

https://youtu.be/nhNbgxy4qjk

tn2.jpg

Offline Top Cat

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Re: Using a Batea gold pan.
« Reply #1 on: February 03, 2019, 07:38:22 AM »
Good video,

My thoughts are it's a metal pan and it should be conditioned, it appears to be Blue in the video, I think you are loosing some gold.

At home take a pail of gravel and put 5 or 6 pieces of gold mixed in it and pan it out to see if you are loosing gold . This will also improve your technique.
That's what I do with my flat pan.

Offline JOE S (INDY)

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Re: Using a Batea gold pan.
« Reply #2 on: February 03, 2019, 01:50:42 PM »
I may be in error here (my wife says that is common with me) but, in my experience, conditioning of a pan means something quite different.

Some take conditioning, of usually plastic pans, to be nothing more than physically scraping the new inside surface to physically remove the oils, silicons, mold releases and such that they feel heavily remain after the manufacture of the pan. The gross result is a scratched pan with some to much of any residual contaminants removed.    Sand paper, steel wool or even a fist full of sand makes for a long and not-so-much an effective seasoning.

The old steel pans (and yes, the Batea one in the video, too) traditionally were actually just thrown into a camp fire to burn off the surface contaminants down to just metal.  In that process, heating  the steel also  happened to darkened the pan to a blue-black color.  After that the pan was just used.   No mysterious processes - simply throw it into the cook fire when you get back from town tonight and use it tomorrow.

It appears that your Batea, Dan, was created using a process which spins a sized metal disc and uses a shaping block to gently mold/change the shape of the spinning disc into the cone shape.  Often the spinning disc is heated and that seems to be why the inside of your pan seems to be uneven in it's discoloration.  There aren't presses used in that shaping process so lubricants and releases aren't needed or used (and usually aren't there).

Today the new plastic pans have surface mold release agents which remain after the injection molding process.  Soap and warm water removes that and if any release still remains, then another tiny bit of soap in the pan quickly removes that.  Using the now clean pan for a short while will slightly roughen the inside surface to work out the very shiny surfaces and it is ready for long service.  Some believe that "Oils and Greases"somehow penetrate the surfaces of the plastic and remain lodged there until, somehow, they just go away.  Based on personal experiences over the years I find that belief to be a bit shaky, at best.

Some of us, when we started out (for me it was the mid 60s), learned with and used 14 inch diameter steel pans on a daily basis - that was just what we had.  Much later I discovered the revolutionary, ultra-modern plastic ones and quickly found that they WERE quite superior, especially with the already built in "Chinese Riffles" in the sides.  Sucker bottles came out then, too - another giant advance in mining evolution.

*** a related short story ***

Back in my mining infancy I went panning with a guy from work.  He brought along a "V" shaped cone ( about 8" top x 10" high) that was made of flexible rubber.  A half shovel of dirt was put in the cone, water was added and, the open end to the top, the cone was slightly squeezed and rotated back and forth between the hands.  After a half dozen or more back and forths (with the hands working up and down while squeeze/spinning) the Gold was assumed to have traveled down the slurry and into the narrow bottom end.  The cone was then pinch closed about 2" up from the tip.  The upper open section was then tipped over to allow the lighter material to fall out and away.  The concentrates in the tip were then washed into a traditional pan and the process repeated until the traditional pan had enough concentrates in it to finally pan it down. 

A curious but very short lived idea.

Joe

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Offline Top Cat

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Re: Using a Batea gold pan.
« Reply #3 on: February 04, 2019, 06:26:55 AM »
Hi Joe,
I didn't go into great detail of conditioning pans (metal/plastic) I figured Dan to have enough experience to know what I was getting at.

I find people don't like to read long posts, so I kept it short and to the point.

I am sure your explanation will help a lot of newbies with the importance of conditioning their pan.




Offline JOE S (INDY)

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Re: Using a Batea gold pan.
« Reply #4 on: February 04, 2019, 07:28:38 AM »
As with most of us we just pick up bits of knowledge over time from others.  Dan ((Helllooooo Dan)) is a wise gent who has been around the barn over and over again - but you're right, others may not have been and it just might be time to share a bit with them.

When I drag on like I did there I'm just trying to share the nuggets of knowledge I may have picked up over time, because as I have said over the years "None of us was born knowing all this."

So, I'll take your well received words of wisdom and tuck them away as well.

Wiser Mining Through Endless Personal Mistakes

Offline tonofsteel

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Re: Using a Batea gold pan.
« Reply #5 on: February 04, 2019, 05:42:10 PM »
I find people don't like to read long posts, so I kept it short and to the point.

I could be the odd one out here but I do enjoy reading really long detailed posts.  I am still green so have a lot to learn yet (ie long posts = more learning and easier to understand the context it all fits into etc.).

Though I can also see how a veteran might appreciate a concise answer without too much filler as they know much of it all already.  Just wanted to say that at least for me there is not "too much" of a post.......

 


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