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Author Topic: Kosoca Trommel Build  (Read 9477 times)

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Offline PhilipGold

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Re: Kosoca Trommel Build
« Reply #20 on: December 16, 2016, 05:56:06 PM »

Offline mcbain

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Re: Kosoca Trommel Build
« Reply #21 on: December 16, 2016, 07:08:16 PM »
Hi.Give yourself a pat on the back.Very Nice build.Luck Mcbain.
I started out with nothing Istill have most of it.

Offline kosoca

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Re: Kosoca Trommel Build
« Reply #22 on: October 18, 2017, 12:26:06 AM »
Hey Blue, thank you very much on the reminder to finish my build thread!  I will be posting for sure the finale photos of the finished plant, sluice and field set up in the next couple weeks. 

Looks great Kosoca. After using the trommel for a couple seasons did you find anything you would change? What did you find is the average yards per hour you can run with it? Did you end up putting a grizzly on it or are you washing all rocks in it? Do you have a lot of dense clay on your claim? If so are you washing the clay or leaving it out?

Planning on building myself a bigger trommel this Fall/Winter so curious how you like yours.  I'd be happy with around 30 yards per hour or so. Lot's of clay on my claim with gold in the first inch or so of it so I'll be washing some of the top layers of the clay so I'll be putting a lot of scrubber bars inside the trommel and will be going with a longer barrel than what is commonly used.

I did not even have a chance to fire it up this year.  I was pretty busy in the late spring and planned on going hard this summer, but the wildfires kept me busy juggling work crews out of town, and after getting back from the evacuation, we were/still so busy catching up, and now into our super busy fall rush.  I only had a few weekends end of summer beginning of fall.  Snow is almost upon us now.

I have a couple of modifications planned for this winter:
1)  I currently have 5 larger 14"L 2"x2" angle iron paddles angled slightly to help pull material away from the barrel entry and keep any backflow from coming out the top of the barrel.  I am going to be angling these the opposite direction and swapping the barrel rotation direction.  This is to keep the heavy side of the barrel  (the side that has the material climbing the barrel wall) on the drive wheel side, not the idler side.  There have been a few instances where the barrel got a sudden influx from the hopper and the drive wheels spun on the barrel when too much weight shifted to the idle wheel side and off the drive wheel side.    I previously ground off the paint and welded a bunch of traction beads on the barrel where the tires ride, and that helped immensely but I still have the odd stall when overloaded.    It starts rolling again quickly with a little help, but I think this will solve any future stalls, but still will allow it to spin if I have any major jamming.
2)  Changing out the 1" x 1/8" wire barrel screen for a 5/8" aggregate screen.  The 1" screen got beaten up pretty bad by the big rocks and I'm tuning the classification to the finer gold in my area.  Hopefully an added bonus is greatly cutting down the amount of sluice tails in the pond by eliminating the 5/8"->1" material from the sluice.
3)  Add a few narrow "catwalks" to stand on.  And some grab handles.

If we are running pretty clean gravels and "on the ball" we could definitely average 30 yph ramming material down the mouth of the hopper.  We have gravels on blue clays that we try to scrape off the top of and it slows down a bit, probably losing 2-3 yph, and if we run into a few patches of gravel/clay mix, we probably lose another 2-3 yph.  The vibrator in the hopper does a good job of "liquefying" anything in it to help keep materials from sticking.  The springs work great at dampening all the vibrations from the vibrator, and also dampening  material "glopping" out of the bucket and falling into the hopper.

We don't have a grizzly, but try to keep rocks bigger than 12"x12" out.  We pile them up then push the pile around later with the hoe and scoop up what falls off once the rocks dry off.  I wanted to and still want to wash the biggest rocks possible.

I spent a bit of money of fancy spray nozzles in the barrel just to unscrew them and run just the 1/2" pipe nipples wide open.  I took out one of the 2 overhead spray bars in the hopper output area and turned that into a static monitor aimed at the area where material is dropped in by the excavator.  Works great.  (spray nozzles would probably work better if I had a higher pressure pump).  I run a 700 gpm wacker 4" trash pump.  It also powers the boil boxes in my sluice.

Lots of rings inside is key!  Slow down the material and keep it piling up on itself for max tumbling.  I added more rings later by cutting a bunch of arcs and welding them together.  Cut some relief holes in them to allow the fines to escape before shutting down.

I might have made the barrel sit taller to allow for more clearance for sluice-setting, etc.  It is nice to have it low profile to able to see in the hopper from the excavator cab.

Bottom Line:
Works incredibly well.   Chews through material.  Spits out clean coarse tails.  But..... 30 yph is a lot of material and  30 yph in is also 30 yph out.  A loader is badly needed for bringing pay to the guy loading the trommel and to haul the relentless coarse tailings away.  A sizeable tailings pond and lots of water is required, especially with all the clay around.

Offline GollyMrScience

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Re: Kosoca Trommel Build
« Reply #23 on: January 09, 2018, 10:13:21 PM »
You have done some great work there. One trick we use in commercial operations is welding a triangle shaped tab either on the nipple or in some cases on the feed pipe such that the water shooting out of the nipple hits the tab and spreads out into a fan shape. May or may not be any help in your case.
The tab is several inches long and triangle so the wide part is out and sticks in front of the water. Fine adjustments can be done with eyeball micrometer and a big hammer. It aint a swiss watch after all.  <-laugh->
What the heck - lets just keep mixin' stuff together till it blows up or smells REALLY bad!


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