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1
Field Trip Sharing / Re: Macro shots of small gold
« Last post by beav on Today at 03:03:11 AM »
I'm finding finer gold in the flats where waves are crashing, and coarser gold toward the land,
in the outcrop cracks and between rocks and traps on the beach.

That makes sense - the gold on the flats is finer because the waves crashing over and over for eons is grinding
it fine. The coarser stuff gets hidden away in the traps(rocks) up on the slopes toward the land like you describe,
somewhat protected from the relentless grinding action of the sands by the waves. Although "big ripper" storms
will move THAT material (erode it) down to the flats, then the process of grinding the coarser gold into fines
begins anew!

Keep diggin NSAUSEEKER!
Beav
2
Field Trip Sharing / Re: Macro shots of small gold
« Last post by NS Gold Seeker on Today at 02:18:53 AM »
Yes the leads were mined up to the 1940's, you can still see the wood frames for the adits.
Some spring water flows out of the shafts into the ocean water.  So the gold did not travel far.
The beach is not a typical sand beach, it is mostly boulder/cobble with sand and gravel, hard clay down
about 6 inches.  Wave action changes the beach with heavy waves and tides.  Moves stuff
around like a big shaker table at a slant.  Beach gold out west is finer I'm sure mixed with sand. 
I am on the outcrops that produced some of the gold so Beav is correct.

I'm finding finer gold in the flats where waves are crashing, and coarser gold toward the land,
in the outcrop cracks and between rocks and traps on the beach.
3
Field Trip Sharing / Re: Macro shots of small gold
« Last post by beav on Today at 12:50:33 AM »
NSGOLD's beach has the lode veins cropping out right at the beach. That is why the gold looks like it does.
Beav
4
Machine Assisted Placer Operations / Re: Kosoca Trommel Build
« Last post by kosoca on Today at 12:26:06 AM »
Hey Blue, thank you very much on the reminder to finish my build thread!  I will be posting for sure the finale photos of the finished plant, sluice and field set up in the next couple weeks. 

Looks great Kosoca. After using the trommel for a couple seasons did you find anything you would change? What did you find is the average yards per hour you can run with it? Did you end up putting a grizzly on it or are you washing all rocks in it? Do you have a lot of dense clay on your claim? If so are you washing the clay or leaving it out?

Planning on building myself a bigger trommel this Fall/Winter so curious how you like yours.  I'd be happy with around 30 yards per hour or so. Lot's of clay on my claim with gold in the first inch or so of it so I'll be washing some of the top layers of the clay so I'll be putting a lot of scrubber bars inside the trommel and will be going with a longer barrel than what is commonly used.

I did not even have a chance to fire it up this year.  I was pretty busy in the late spring and planned on going hard this summer, but the wildfires kept me busy juggling work crews out of town, and after getting back from the evacuation, we were/still so busy catching up, and now into our super busy fall rush.  I only had a few weekends end of summer beginning of fall.  Snow is almost upon us now.

I have a couple of modifications planned for this winter:
1)  I currently have 5 larger 14"L 2"x2" angle iron paddles angled slightly to help pull material away from the barrel entry and keep any backflow from coming out the top of the barrel.  I am going to be angling these the opposite direction and swapping the barrel rotation direction.  This is to keep the heavy side of the barrel  (the side that has the material climbing the barrel wall) on the drive wheel side, not the idler side.  There have been a few instances where the barrel got a sudden influx from the hopper and the drive wheels spun on the barrel when too much weight shifted to the idle wheel side and off the drive wheel side.    I previously ground off the paint and welded a bunch of traction beads on the barrel where the tires ride, and that helped immensely but I still have the odd stall when overloaded.    It starts rolling again quickly with a little help, but I think this will solve any future stalls, but still will allow it to spin if I have any major jamming.
2)  Changing out the 1" x 1/8" wire barrel screen for a 5/8" aggregate screen.  The 1" screen got beaten up pretty bad by the big rocks and I'm tuning the classification to the finer gold in my area.  Hopefully an added bonus is greatly cutting down the amount of sluice tails in the pond by eliminating the 5/8"->1" material from the sluice.
3)  Add a few narrow "catwalks" to stand on.  And some grab handles.

If we are running pretty clean gravels and "on the ball" we could definitely average 30 yph ramming material down the mouth of the hopper.  We have gravels on blue clays that we try to scrape off the top of and it slows down a bit, probably losing 2-3 yph, and if we run into a few patches of gravel/clay mix, we probably lose another 2-3 yph.  The vibrator in the hopper does a good job of "liquefying" anything in it to help keep materials from sticking.  The springs work great at dampening all the vibrations from the vibrator, and also dampening  material "glopping" out of the bucket and falling into the hopper.

We don't have a grizzly, but try to keep rocks bigger than 12"x12" out.  We pile them up then push the pile around later with the hoe and scoop up what falls off once the rocks dry off.  I wanted to and still want to wash the biggest rocks possible.

I spent a bit of money of fancy spray nozzles in the barrel just to unscrew them and run just the 1/2" pipe nipples wide open.  I took out one of the 2 overhead spray bars in the hopper output area and turned that into a static monitor aimed at the area where material is dropped in by the excavator.  Works great.  (spray nozzles would probably work better if I had a higher pressure pump).  I run a 700 gpm wacker 4" trash pump.  It also powers the boil boxes in my sluice.

Lots of rings inside is key!  Slow down the material and keep it piling up on itself for max tumbling.  I added more rings later by cutting a bunch of arcs and welding them together.  Cut some relief holes in them to allow the fines to escape before shutting down.

I might have made the barrel sit taller to allow for more clearance for sluice-setting, etc.  It is nice to have it low profile to able to see in the hopper from the excavator cab.

Bottom Line:
Works incredibly well.   Chews through material.  Spits out clean coarse tails.  But..... 30 yph is a lot of material and  30 yph in is also 30 yph out.  A loader is badly needed for bringing pay to the guy loading the trommel and to haul the relentless coarse tailings away.  A sizeable tailings pond and lots of water is required, especially with all the clay around.
5
General Gold Prospecting Forum / Prospecting around Castlegar, BC?
« Last post by Legend on Today at 12:03:19 AM »
Hello prospectors. I live in Castlegar, and I just started falling vicitim to this highly addictive gold panning. I have been trying to hone my skills by panning various creeks in my area. I do come up with black sands but never any gold. Are there any veterans that have panned out in this area that can recommend good spots to lift my spirits? As well as any tips for a newbie panner such as myself? I am always looking to improve and any help would be greatly appreciated.
6
Rockhounding, Gem & Mineral Collecting / Re: Ruby Creek
« Last post by Newbie101 on Yesterday at 10:34:47 PM »
Yes, the gravel road on the East side of Ruby creek is still used today, here is what I panned out just a few hundred yards up that road just before it starts to turn away from the river course. And no, that is not gold mixed in the picture, just weird lighting. Garnets are quite light compared to gold so pan very carefully. Hope this helps.

04.jpg


7
It looks like you might need a Sikorsky Sky Crane to take that puppy home.   

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sikorsky_S-64_Skycrane

Joe
8
Machine Assisted Placer Operations / Re: Gravity Fed Water Systems
« Last post by Newbie101 on Yesterday at 10:15:29 PM »
Hi Cade, you might consider a hundred foot length of solid 4 inch big-O piping, it can be bought at home depot for about $75 for 100 ft.  The down side is that if you have too much head (elevation) it may collapse the top section of the pipe, plus there is no way you could put a cork in that thing once it starts to roll with any elevation drop  greater than 20 feet but it's a really light cheap solution for a guy on a budget  and it would easily power several high bankers simultaneously.
9
General Gold Prospecting Forum / Re: Litharge
« Last post by JOE S (INDY) on Yesterday at 10:13:47 PM »
Hi.Dan.Hope you got my pm.Gold one just confirmed my pm.The stuff is outlawed.I think it has a lot to do with lead.Mcbain.

JEEZ, Litharge is nothing more than Lead Oxide.     

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Litharge     

The use of Lead Oxide in paints is no longer allowed but like most chemicals it has many other, beneficial uses. 

Now, I have read that putting Lead in an oxygen rich environment (air) and heating it to 600+ Deg F will cause the surface of the melted Pb to naturally oxidize to PbO or, by it's other name, Litharge. 

I have also heard that Lead powder can be used instead in smelting if the furnace door is left open a crack to let Oxygen rich air into the heat chamber.  Look up "Fire Assay" here:     http://webpages.charter.net/kwilliams00/bcftp/docs/assaying.htm

Joe
10
Field Trip Sharing / Re: Anyone Else Get confused for a Fisherman?
« Last post by Newbie101 on Yesterday at 09:45:16 PM »
lol, Thats very true but can she find gold instead of worms . . . . that's the real question ;)
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